Anyone read The New Yorker? In the most recent issue there was a human interest article on the latest gastronomic delights at a New YorkCity restaurant. Here is my response, which of course will not be published. I wish some vegetarian of notoriety would respond — a celebrity, the director of the Humane Society– as those are the people whose reaction might stand a chance at appearing in print.
Your little slice of life piece (no pun intended) on the pig dishes served up at Benoit by (evil) master (mind) chef Philippe Bertineau reveal on the side, like a nice au gratin potato, his intellectual honesty. Many cooks take pains, whether consciously or not, to present meat in disguise- — medallions, chunks, swimming in broth with vegetables, shredded beyond recognition. Bertineau forthrightly gives his lucky diners the whole pig — and a baby no less! That way there is no shying away from what is about to be masticated and digested. Nonetheless, the experience is not quite as whole as it could be. He can do more. The live piglet should be trotted out for exhibition before being killed for an even more remarkable dining experience. Yes, it will scream when the mortal moment comes, but at first it might be quite a pleasant spectacle because it is a domesticated baby accustomed to being with its human friends. If raised a bit beyond youngest childhood with the attention we give to dogs, it will even be able to perform tricks, like horses or dogs. The sow should be on hand too to make it a family affair. Every mother would be proud of the sacrifice she is making. Her baby will go to feed the starving, underweight dining public of New York City so they can survive the cruel spring.